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It was one year ago today that I arrived here in Berlin.

I can remember those first few days so clearly. It snowed constantly, and was cold as hell. The awful French woman I was renting a room from didn't believe in heating the apartment to a livable temperature, so I had to buy a hot-water bottle, several pairs of wool socks and a heavy sweater... and I remember preferring to huddle in bed under the wool blankets rather than sit at the desk or on the couch that was in my room.

In the past two or three months I've begun to finally feel comfortable here, as though Berlin is finally 'home' to me. I know my way around now, and have a handful of people who I can call friends.

The language no longer poses SUCH an impossible barrier. Yesterday I made a phone call to T-Online customer service to get help with setting up my router, and the entirety of the conversation was conducted in German. It doesn't matter that the router still doesn't work despite all of our efforts – the point is that I could understand and be understood (over the PHONE no less, which is far more difficult than in person).

Also of note, I've gotten used to typing on a German computer keyboard. Trust me, it took a while, and I still miss having the apostrophe and quotation marks in easy-to-reach places, but I no longer have to worry about getting my z's and y's right.

I feel like I've just scratched the surface here, though – there's still so much I want to learn and do.

I've finally begun to get my 'painting legs' back. For the majority of the year I've been creatively constipated, but things seem to be running a bit more smoothly now. I've invited a fellow artist/curator to stop by this weekend to talk 'art' and maybe make some plans to put a show together. Hopefully something good with come of it.

You know, I feel like I'm finally in the place where I expected I would be two or three months after I arrived. Funny.

Would I do it all over again? Yes! Although I'm really so glad I don't have to... I like where I'm at now and certainly wouldn't relish having to deal with all the paperwork and legal process (although I know there will be more of that in my future if I continue to stay here) or orchestrating the shipment of 40 paintings across the ocean, or tying up all the countless loose ends left in Chicago from a pay-phone in a Berlin call shop. All of THAT I will happily leave behind me.

But when everything is said and done, I am still SO glad I came here :)
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On Saturday I learned that a nice gallery here in Berlin is interested in my work. A friend of a friend sent my website link to the gallery owner and I guess he liked what he saw. I tried to get over to the gallery to introduce myself on Saturday, but I had to work all day so I didn't get over there until 8pm and the place was already closed. It looked like a nice gallery though, and it was in the middle of the gallery district. I'm going to try to catch up with them some time this week.

Today was a bank holiday today so I worked for a few hours in my studio and then went for a long walk along the train tracks, through Treptower Park, and then over to Kreuzburg near where I work. There are a lot of strange empty fields and crumbling buildings in Berlin, which I find fascinating. Here are some of the buildings I saw today while I was out walking:








Uncouth

Aug. 5th, 2010 12:36 am
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Because my interview was rescheduled, I spent the day over at the Oranienplatz branch of the Berlin Biennale. I left around 6, had dinner, and then walked home.



While I was out walking, I finally discovered where the artists have been hiding their studios. They're in the courtyards – the "Hof"! Once I figured that out I walked into every Hof I could get into, just to see what was there.


Retarded foreigner moment of the day: I got an awesomely big ice cream cone from the Eis vendor inside the Alexanderplatz station. It was hazelnüss und vanille, and I was really enjoying it – I'd wanted one all morning. I went downstairs with it and my train pulled up, so I got on. I walked in all happy as a clam with my great big ice cream cone and walked down the car and stood by a pole because there were no seats available.

But then I noticed that everyone was looking at me with these big saucer eyeballs and I wondered wtf?? Was there something wrong? Did they all want my ice cream cone or something? And then I noticed a poster directly beside me of a cartoon woman eating an ice cream cone (with spatters of food dripped all over her) and there were big words across it that read (in German) "Eating Food is Forbidden on this Train"

oh mein Gott.

I immediately got off the train at the next stop and waited until I was finished with my ice cream cone before I boarded another train and continued on my journey. How uncouth of me...lesson learned!
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Gotta love how non-English speakers use English, lol. This place's name made me laugh because it's just so to-the-point:


I spent yesterday at the Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art. In this piece, titled something like, "Today I might go to work, or I might not", the artist disassembled a MacBook Pro and hung every single piece on the wall. I happen to have a MacBook Pro, so it was interesting to see something so familiar all in pieces (I wasn't too impressed with it as a work of art, though):


I thought this piece was cool. The artist had built an intense network of copper pipes running all throughout the rooms of the exhibition hall, ending up here with a block of salt on a little table, and a pillow and some bedding on the floor beneath. Water dripped intermittently from the copper pipe onto the salt block, which had gradually spread salt water onto the floor, which the pillow and bedding had then absorbed. The salt had crystallized beautifully on the floor and bedding:


I found this interesting little gem of conversation on the bathroom stall at the exhibition space:


And you know, it's a completely valid question. Why is there so much boring art? Definitely not all, but some of the stuff I saw at the biennale had me wondering the same damn thing. I mean, there was a video piece where a woman and her mother re-enacted her birth. So there's this naked 30-something year old woman laying on her mom in a fetal position under the mom's nightgown, and I kept feeling sorry for the mother, who didn't look comfortable at all with her grown daughter laying on her like that. The woman laid on top of her for forever, dramatically waiting for the right minute to "birth" herself, and I completely lost interest and walked away. I mean, seriously, wtf.

Incidentally, the bathroom where the above was written was right beside the area where this video piece was playing. Probably not a coincidence.

Wish me luck today – my interview is in three hours! :)
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Sources got back to me with some websites to try and I found this:

270 m2 Atelier/Wohnraum in ehemaligem Fabrikgebäude in Spandau
Ich suche einen Nachmieter für mein Atelier in Spandau (wohnen erlaubt). Sehr hell, viele Fenster, erste Etage mit Lastenaufzug, ruhig mit wunderschönem Ausblick ins Grüne. Haus mit weiteren Künstlern. Nähe S- und U-Bahnhof Spandau. Keine Kaution. Miete: 685 € warm. Frei ab 1. September 2010.

[270 sqm Live / Work studio in former factory building Spandau I'm looking for someone to take over my studio in Spandau (living allowed). Very bright, lots of windows 1st floor with freight lift, quiet with a beautiful green view. Other artists in the same building. Near S / Ubahnhof Spandau. No security deposit . 685 € Warm. Available 1. September 2010.]

Wow, this space sounds great. It's twice the size of my current studio and roughly $300 USD less expensive (although I wonder what kind of area it's in?). Tomorrow I will investigate if it's still available.

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I walked around Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain until the bottoms of my feet felt like they had turned into bruised pulp and I took the train back to the neighborhood where I'm staying. Today's mission was to research studio space here in Berlin but I think I'm looking in the wrong places. I've emailed a couple people for advice, so hopefully they can point me in the right direction.

It's raining here now, and I'm having a chill night in. I was going to do laundry, but I forgot to buy detergent. I like to use "Denkmit" when I'm over here because the name amuses me. Same thing with Blend-a-med toothpaste, lol.



There be more photos here... )

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I've been taking photographs along the way, of course.
Read more... )
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My flight to Berlin was atypical. About an hour in, one of the crew got on the PA and asked if there were any doctors on board. And it's never a good thing to hear something like that, so I kind of knew immediately that things weren't gong to go as planned and that I should just accept it and go with the flow. I was sitting in the farthest back row, and the crew and two doctors (yes, thank god there actually were doctors on board) brought the suffering woman to the area directly behind my seat where there was an empty space. I offered my pillow and blanket, and they took them. The woman had had an allergic reaction to something and none of her medicines were proving useful. The doctors gave her what was available on board, but apparently it wasn't enough, so we made an emergency landing in Butt Fuck, Egypt Moncton, Canada. We sat on the tarmac as various officials ran around with papers, filling out forms, and finally the woman (who's reaction had generally subsided by then) was taken off in an ambulance and our plane was given a new flight plan.

I watched kids' movies the whole flight, the best of which was "How to Train Your Dragon". The woman sitting next to me was interesting and we had some nice conversation, but she wasn't a Talker (thankfully... you know what I mean), and slept most of the way.

Connecting flights were rescheduled, and the extra wait time wasn't so bad. My luggage, however, landed in Berlin ahead of me (I'm not sure how that worked out), and finding it was kind of a PITA, because they'd stowed it in an outside warehouse. But at least everything got here with me, for which I am grateful.

I got dinner and walked to the place where I'm renting a room. Martin (the guy renting it to me) and his girlfriend were waiting outside, and showed me inside. They made a dinner of pasta and pesto sauce with cherry tomatoes, and it was so good that pasta with pesto sauce is all I really want to eat now.

Yesterday, by the time 8pm rolled around I was exhausted from walking around the city, but was determined to hit the clubs, so I got all dolled up and headed out at midnight. My first stop was a club called Der Club Visionaere, but it was So Packed that after one beer all I wanted to do was get the hell out of there. The words "Fire Hazard" came to mind. So I left and headed over to K17, which is a huge gothic/industrial club.

Early in the evening I heard a girl speaking English with an American accent and she looked cool so I introduced myself and we started chatting. Turns out she was Johanna from the band the Crüxshadows, and they had played a show there earlier in the evening. It was interesting to hear their tales of life on the road and I was really impressed by how super nice and down to earth they all were. They mentioned a goth cruise they're going to be doing soon, and I'm going to look into it – something like a mini WGT on a boat, which sounds über fun.

I had a bunch of conversations with people between songs, all in German this time, and I was complimented on how well I spoke the language (!!!) and had people wondering how I had learned how to speak it so well (omg). It's funny because I couldn't speak German this well when I was in Hamburg...somehow it all just "clicked" in my head and makes sense. I can understand what people say to me, as well as easily reply in German without having to slowly translate things in my head before I say them. When I initiate conversations or deal with people in shops or restaurants no one ever immediately switches into English anymore, and although I still can't have deep philosophical conversations, I'm generally fluent – it's awesome!

Got home around 6am and went to bed. When I woke up and saw that my clock read 4:58pm, my first thought was, "AAAAAAAAAAAEEEEEEeee!" After which I though, "oh fuck, it's the Day of Rest after all, isn't it?" and took a shower.

I got dinner and walked for 10 miles around the city, checking out Freidrichshain and Kreuzberg. I'm currently having a glass of red wine up in my room, before trying to go to bed. I've been having a blast here so far ;)
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The graffiti in Berlin was colorful, imaginative, and everywhere. They don't have gangs like we do here in Chicago, so it wasn't related to violence or crime. There was something really awesome about it. It felt like art was bubbling out of the walls.





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Last night I went out to a secret club in an old factory/industrial building. It was a word by mouth affair, and you had to know a password to get in. Angela told me about it, so I was pretty curious to check it out. It was pretty cool, and very international. I got through the checkpoint okay and made it up the stairs to where all the music was coming from. When I stepped in I saw there was a long banquet table with a white table cloth and lots of candles on it where people were finishing up dinner. Had I known there would be a dinner I might have come earlier, but oh well. I got a beer and milled around. The place was REALLY cool but people seemed to be thinning out around 1am, which was sort of a bummer. I talked to a guy from New York who told me about a club up the street which sounded fun (called "Coffee-Burger" or something like that), so I headed over there to check it out. They had a dancefloor which was cool, but the music was hip-hop, which I'm pretty much totally not into. Whatever, I danced to a few songs because I felt like moving around, and had a couple beers. 

Today I explored Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain, window shopping, and my feet are really beat. I'm going to head back to the apartment briefly and then go get dinner at one of the restaurants around Kollwitzplatz. I need some serious food (read: meat!) after walking around in the sun all day. Then it'll be an early bedtime and hopefully some good solid slumber. My flight leaves in the morning and I'll have to be up early.

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It's a beautiful day here in Berlin, and I've been out shopping and wandering to and from various contemporary art exhibits.

The Wave Gotik Treffen was FUCKING AMAZING. It was basically goth heaven. I met such totally cool people and heard such great music, it completely blew my mind. Absolute heaven. I've done a great deal more socializing on this trip than I have in past adventures, and actually have quite a few photographs with people other than my self this time! haha

Oooooo it is SO hard to keep from shopping here. Everything looks so awesome and then I see the price tag and do the $ to Euro conversion in my head and I hold my wallet tight and run away. I saw the coolest watches and they were over $300! I can not justify buying a $300 watch, no matter how cool it is. I know I would promptly lose it or spill paint on it or something. I've also seen some pretty sharp looking leather jackets that were around 300 €. Again, I can't justify that kind of money, especially when I already have a zillion jackets. I'm going to do an internet search for those watches when I get back home, though. They were really awesome.

The Berlin Biennale was OK. The one two years ago had stronger work, though, and this time around there were actually some pieces that were downright stupid. I went there with a Canadian (from Montreal) guy Pat who is staying at the apartment across from mine with a filmmaker named Angela. Pat and I sat through one video art piece totally laughing at how utterly retarded it was. I love contemporary art, but MAN. Sometimes it's really dumb.

This city has the most awesome graffiti all over the place. It's kind of hard for me to just walk down the street in a timely fashion because I keep wanting to stop and take photographs.

Now I need to decide if I want to go out dancing tonight or if I want to just get a relaxing dinner. I'm kind of tired from walking around all day, but I feel like I'm a little nuts not to take advantage of the fact that I can go out dancing at a GOTH CLUB in BERLIN. I mean, honestly, this should be a no brainer. Yeah, I'll probably go out ;)
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I have my plane ticket to Düsseldorf! I'll be staying there a few days with my friend and her family before we make our way to Leipzig. The Wave Gotik Treffen website still hasn't listed the bands that are playing this year, but I'm sure we'll have a blast no matter what. Our hotel room has been secured, so all I need to worry about is which pairs of tall leather boots to bring along. I think I'll be packing an actual suitcase this time around! Yay luxury. Afterwards, on the 13th I will head to Berlin on my own for a couple days to see the Berlin Biennale.

I ordered a hair piece a few days ago. It's wavy platinum blond and is supposed to make my hair look fuller and longer than it really is (it's a 15" piece). You clip it under your hair at the crown of your head and is supposed to look "seamless". We shall see. If it looks good I might splurge and get the longer one too (the 22"); I've always thought it would be really cool to have long platinum hair, although I'll never have it naturally because bleached hair becomes far too damaged to make it that long before breaking off. They had human hair versions of some of the styles too, but they were vastly more expensive, and it seems really gross to be wearing someone else's hair.

Last night I did some paint experimentation. I hung a shower curtain in my kitchen as a drop cloth, took a bowl of paint, and used an electric hand mixer to fling the paint out at a piece of kraft paper. The results were nice: long thin tendrils of paint in arcs as well as some delicate spray. Very cool. I'm thinking of doing a few abstract pieces next, so we'll see.

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